the recipe for Coquilles Saint-Jacques with Champagne, Bourdain sorts ingredients in the headnotes, writing, “Sea scallops are not those horrible little pencil erasers (a.k.a. calico scallops), nor the scallops that come in a plastic tub, marinating in some mysterious liquid.” In the instructions he notes, “You’re only going to need a half-cup of that Champagne, and since you had to crack a whole bottle, and it’s going flat anyway, you may as well start drinking. That’s what’s called ‘the chef’s prerogative.’” A final sidenote instructs the cook to, “Take a big hit off the remaining Champagne and stagger to the table.”